1,000-Milers

Posted on July 3, 2011

We joined the 1,000-mile club! Whooooot! It’s hard to believe, but we’ve made it to West Virginia, and have now completed almost half of the Appalachian Trail. A lot has happened since we left Charlottesville, and we’ve covered a lot of ground (averaging 20 miles a day for 10 days straight). We’ve even upped our “bear count” from zero to six. Here’s what our adventuring has brought us:

Day 71 Fish Hatchery Road to Harpers Creek Shelter (12.2 miles)
After cousin Lindsay dropped us off in Montebello, VA, we headed back up the steep trail with full hearts and stomachs (lots of good eating and family time in C’ville did us good). All afternoon, a storm seemed to loom over us as we conquered “The Priest” and descended its never-ending downhill. The storm never really showed, though, and we made it safely and dryly to Harpers Creek Shelter.

Beams.

Day 72 Harpers Creek Shelter to Paul C. Wolfe Shelter (22 miles)
A gray day with lots of stops and starts…to be honest, I’m not bringing to mind anything exciting from this day, but I’m sure it was great at the time!

Day 73 Paul C. Wolfe Shelter to Blackrock Hut (25 miles)
Our longest day yet! For real this time! We entered Shenandoah National Park around mile five of the day, only to realize that we had passed the station where we were supposed to register and fill out a permit. Zack dropped his pack and ran back the one mile to the register, filled it out, and ran back. So, not to brag about him or anything, but he did a 27-mile day. Look out!

Day 74 Blackrock Hut to Hightop Hut (21.4 miles)
We resupplied early in the day at a camp store in the park. It’s been really nice knowing that there are camp stores scattered around where we can get food, so we don’t have to carry too many days-worth at a time. A warm day of hiking was topped off by some roadside trail magic (brownies and bananas). After dinner that night, we both still felt hungry, making us come to the frustrating realization that after multiple 20-mile days in a row, we weren’t carrying enough food for our appetites. That all was to change…

Mama and cubs.

Day 75 Hightop Hut to Big Meadows Campsite (20.4 miles)
We had our first bear sighting today! Well, there was a black furry flash across the trail (think: the Smoke Monster on “Lost”), and we’re pretty sure it was a bear. We decided to experience the side of the park that most people experience, so we stayed at a paid campsite tonight. It was a bit strange to have a perfectly flat site on which to set up our tent, with an enormous bear-box included, and showers nearby. Most people were camped next to their cars, but, still, we fit in nicely. A leisurely walk along a nature trail to the Big Meadows Wayside led to an enormous dinner. We ate the following desserts: chocolate sundae, blackberry milkshake (a Shenandoah National Park staple), blackberry cobbler and pecan pie (with ice cream on the side of both). We also ordered dinner.

Day 76 Big Meadows Campsite to Pass Mountain Hut (18.8 miles)
Today was the first day that we felt a little peopled-out in the park. So many friendly faces to talk to, but sometimes on the trail you want things to be quiet and peaceful. We remained in good spirits though, and had a mac and cheese dinner with a jolly turtle.

Day 77 Pass Mountain Hut to Front Royal Terrapin Station Hostel (22.7 miles)
We knew we had a long day ahead of us, and it was going wonderfully until…a huge storm moved in when we were only one mile from the hostel where we planned to stay the night. We tried to get there by nearly running, but we couldn’t outrun the weather. We got drenched, and then – in a surprise twist on a 90-degree day – got hailed on as well! Ultimately, the storm passed quickly, and we arrived at Terrapin Station Hostel, the basement of a former thru-hiker converted into a bunk-house, and got dry and clean. A peaceful night under a roof was just what we needed.

Day 78 Front Royal Terrapin Station Hostel to Dick’s Dome Shelter (19 miles)
With so many days doing over-20 miles, a 19-miler seems short! We got into camp by 3:00 and had a wonderful afternoon (naps included). Despite the 30+ youngsters camped nearby, we had a restful night. Though, I shall always remember the insane amount of mashed potatoes I had to eat tonight, when Mr. Z was not feeling well enough to eat his fair share. I mean, I like mashed potatoes and all, but nobody needs nine cups in one sitting…

Day 79 Dick’s Dome Shelter to Bear’s Den Hostel (18.7 miles)
The “roller coaster” is a 13-mile section with 10 significant climbs and descents, feared and revered by hikers past and present. We knew we had Bear’s Den Hostel, a literal castle in the woods, to look forward to at the end of it, so we powered through it. (And, not to sound too cool, but we didn’t find the “coaster” too taxing.) Pizza, Ben and Jerry’s and a hiker room open 24/7 at Bear’s Den made for another wonderful night.

Day 80 Bear’s Den Hostel to Harpers Ferry, WV (19.7 miles)
Within the first few miles of the morning we crossed out of Virginia! After 500+ miles in that state, we finally made it to a new state. We also crossed the 1,000-mile mark! It was a joyful morning indeed. We made it to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Headquarters in Harpers Ferry, WV and had our official picture taken for the records. The real treat was when Colin and Esther braved the DC traffic to come and pick us up. A Thai take-out dinner back in the big city was just what we needed to adjust to city living for a few days.

Entering Harper’s Ferry, crossing the Shenandoah.

Day 81 Washington, DC (0 miles)
Food and friends! Food and friends! It was a beautiful day in the capitol. I met up with Becca, Whittie extraordinaire, and had a great afternoon with her. Colin’s parents also invited us over to their house for a delicious homemade dinner. Our errands were also successful…we showed up at the camera store with our supposedly broken camera, and – on cue – it started working again. Yay!

Day 82 Washington, DC to Harpers Ferry, WV (0 miles)
More errands to do today before we leave the spoils of the big city. Two zero days after long miles has made us happy hikers. As we head back onto the trail tomorrow, we’ve got lots to look forward to. Many more state crossings (Maryland and Pennsylvania, here we come!), and new boots to break in. We’re still loving the hiking life, and are grateful for all of the love and support that surrounds us.

Love to all,
Lara (and Zack)

Still Truckin’

Posted on June 21, 2011

Another brief hiatus to visit family plops us in Charlottesville, VA for two days this week. After another 5-day stint of big miles and big climbs, we find ourselves plucked off the trail and whisked to Blenheim Vineyards, home to Caroline and Andrew. Pretty sure we’re the only thru-hikers in our bunch who’ve been treated to wine tastings, tours of UVA, and dinners at the outdoor mall. Feeling extremely lucky yet again.

The past few hiking days have been a recoup period for us: temps a little cooler, regaining our pre-beach stamina, etc. We managed to average around 19 miles a day for this outing thanks to a strategy of early rising and getting our big climbs over with in the morning. Overall, we’re feeling good and are very much looking forward to hitting the Shenandoahs and (dare I say it) the end of Virginia within the next two weeks. 814.8 miles down!

The Blue Ridge Mountains.

Here’s the day-by-day:

Day 64 Daleville to Bobblets Gap Shelter (18.5 miles)
Fairly normal day–cool and dry–but abnormal for the same reasons. Our hike was easy enough, following the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) for a large section, traversing it several times. Had a struggle getting our bear hang up, but it’s all comical in retrospect. Met a new friend today named Bruce from Honolulu who told us all about shrimp farming, working for JPMorgan’s International Division and lobbying for Common Cause. Everyone’s got their story out here.

Day 65 Bobblet’s Gap Shelter to Cornelius Creek Shelter (18.6 miles)
We were lucky enough to encounter not one but two instances of Trail Magic today. The first, a cooler left for us on the trail, contained sodas, candy and delicious, home-made zucchini bread. Happily munching our new-found snacks, we decided to postpone our usual morning snack until later in the day. Little did we know, just around the corner from our delayed food break sat Johnny Cash and Flatbread, two past thru-hikers who had brought a veritable cornucopia for all passing hikers into the woods near Jennings Creek. “We’d received so much trail magic during our hikes,” said Johnny, “we just had to repay it.” And repay it they did. These folks went above and beyond our expectations, making us pancakes on the spot, loading us up with fresh fruit, chocolate, and sodas, and even offering to replace our headlamp batteries. Admittedly, we walked away with upset stomachs. Still worth it.

Day 66 Cornelius Creek Shelter to Johns Hollow Shelter (21.6 miles)
Began the day with a scaling of Apple Orchard Mountain. The summit, at 4,225 ft. is the highest point we’ll reach until New Hampshire. The bald-top is home to an airforce radar facility that gives off a serious Dharma Initiative vibe (and, I guess, the views are worth noting too). On the back side of the mountain near Thunder Ridge we braved the Guillotine, a large boulder suspended directly above the trail and, later, crossed the James River via footbridge (the longest foot-traffic only bridge on the AT).

Day 67 Johns Hollow Shelter to Brown Mountain Creek Shelter (18.3)
Steep climb this morning up Bluff Mountain and the Punchbowl, but we tackled it no sweat. It seems the heat wave might be making a comeback, so we’re sticking to our early-rise mantra for the next few days. Got into camp around 2:30, so we enjoyed a lazy afternoon dipping in a nearby swimming hole and reading aloud. Evening rain doused the area, but we managed to stay dry thanks to the rain fly.

“The Guillotine.”

Day 68 Brown Mountain Creek Shelter to Spy Rock Rd./Charlottesville, VA (19.3)
A foggy morning, the likes of which we haven’t seen since Tennessee. Started out the day with a 3,000 foot climb up to a few balds (Cold Mountain, Tar Jacket Ridge) but, alas, they were viewless. It’s a strange feeling looking out into the void and knowing that, on a sunny day, you could see for miles and miles. On top of one of the balds, Lara gained cell phone reception for long enough to coordinate our pick-up with Caroline. Excited by the prospect of a family dinner that evening, we bounded over the ridge, making great time. Met cousin Caroline in Montebello, VA around 3:30 and made it to C’ville by 5:00.

Missing you all as we creep closer to the half-way point. Pray for good weather, and drop us a line sometime!

Love,
Zack (and Lara)

We’re Having a Heat Wave

Posted on June 14, 2011

We’re having a heat wave! And what a week it’s been. It was not an easy task adjusting back to trail life after a week with family and joyful celebration at the beach (Days 49-53). It didn’t help that the temperatures soared, and the mileage was not “easy Virginia,” as we had been told. As a result, I have become one big heat rash, and we’re both covered in bug bites – these are a few of our favorite things! In spite of some trying times and a minor case of the “Virginia Blues,” we are still pushing onward, enjoying the company of our fellow hikers, and seeing some incredible sights. Here’s what’s happened since we left the beach:

Day 54 US-52 to Helvey’s Mill Shelter (2.3 miles)
The morning after Caroline and Andrew’s wedding was a gray and rainy one. We all decided it made it easier to leave such a wonderful place and time with family after such a beautiful wedding. After a long drive to Bland, VA, we said a tearful goodbye to my parents and hiked a short two miles back into the woods. It was the first night since we started hiking that we were the only people at a shelter. This worried us a little bit – have all of our friends gotten so far ahead? Has the trail become a ghost-town? Where is everybody? A strange feeling, but we didn’t have it for long.

Day 55 Helvey’s Mill Shelter to Dismal Falls (18 miles)
My blister-free days are behind me. After not having developed a single one in 55 days, I took off my shoe tonight to find a doozie. The reason? I got a pedicure at the beach in preparation for the wedding, and it took off all my hard-earned callouses! The price of luxury! The blister didn’t slow me down though, and our first day back we did a long, 18-miler to Dismal Falls, which were actual anything but dismal. The waterfalls were not listed as anything spectacular in our guidebook, but we were so glad we checked them out. We also ran into some old and some new trail friends – so happy to see familiar faces, and the peaceful sounds of the nearby waterfalls also helped to soothe us back into trail life.

Day 56 Dismal Falls to Woods Hole Hostel (13 miles)
Originally, we had thought, “If we just spent a week off the trail, we won’t need another hostel or town stay for at least a week afterward.” Well, that was until we read the description of Woods Hole Hostel in our guidebook as “a little slice of heaven.” Sure enough, after a hot but short 12-mile hike, we arrived at the hostel to home-baked goods and friendly people. The hostel was built in the 1980s and has since become a family business, now run by the granddaughter of the original founders. The hostel has its own vegetable garden and bunkhouse; everyday fresh and local meals are made for guests. A communal dinner of delicious homemade bread, pasta and salad with 20 fellow hikers was just what we needed. (Topping it off with the locally made Butter Pecan ice cream didn’t hurt either.)

Wood’s Hole directions.

Day 57 Woods Hole Hostel to Campsite (15 miles)
Breakfast at Woods Hole continued to reinforce the idea that we were experiencing “a little slice of heaven.” With our tummies full, we headed into the hot day and hiked into the town of Pearisburg, VA. There we got our fill again, this time on Mexican food at La Barranca restaurant, and resupplied at the grocery. Being in town made us so thankful that we hike in the woods and not on pavement; as hot as it is under the trees, it is truly unbearable in towns. So hot! The only remedy (obviously) was a dip cone and a Blizzard at the local DQ before heading back out into the woods. We got a little lost trying to get out of town, but – thanks to our college degrees – we were able to figure it out. We had a very steep, long uphill climb to our campsite, but we made it there before dark. Just after we arrived, a group of 16 from Tallahassee – mostly boy scouts and a church group – showed up too! It was great to see some young people and families on the trail amid the scruffy thru-hikers.

Day 58 Campsite to Bailey’s Gap Shelter (19 miles)
We arrived at Bailey’s Gap Shelter after slowly making our way up a very steep hill in our last mile of a long, hot day (the longest mile of my life!). Exhausted, we set up camp and heard big thunder rolling in. Sure enough, a huge thunderstorm raged right overhead for over an hour. It was a pretty scary experience. We’ve had relatively few storms out here, but the ones we have had have been intense. We held up well and were able to sleep through the night in spite of it.

Day 59 Bailey’s Gap Shelter to Laurel Creek Shelter (14.5 miles)
A bit shaken by the previous night’s storm, we were a bit slow-going this morning. Another enormous climb in the afternoon zapped us of our energy, and we decided to cut our day short at 14.5 miles, rather than pushing on to 21 miles. Thunder threatened all afternoon, but unlike the night before, nothing became of it. Still, we were able to have a much-needed leisurely afternoon at the shelter with some of our friends – Mr. Tree, Jugs, John Stamos, Danish and Gravy.

Day 60 Laurel Creek Shelter to VA 620, Trout Creek (21.3 miles)
Let me tell you, the heat did not let up! We tried to get an earlier start this morning, but even still, by 1:00, the heat was unbearable. We stopped with some of our fellow hikers at Niday Shelter at lunchtime and took a hikers’ siesta. I fell asleep on the shelter floor in the shade and couldn’t have been happier. By 3:00 we were able to head out again; the clouds had moved in, so the sun’s rage had diminished its hold over us. We put in a solid 8 miles after lunch and were able to make up the mileage that we had cut short the day before, arriving in time for an evening around the campfire with friends and their dogs (Luna and Kiwi – these thru-hiking dogs are very hardcore, but we still love Milo and Casey most of all).

Nearing Catawba, VA.

Day 61 VA 620, Trout Creek to Catawba Mountain Shelter (15.8 miles)
Great things in store for us today! Within the first 6 miles of hiking, we reached Dragon’s Tooth, a huge rock that juts upward out of the top of a mountain. We each scaled the steep monolith and got to the top for our photo-ops, of which we were very proud (don’t worry moms, we were very, very careful!). It was a very rocky day of hiking, more boulder-climbing than I like (my short legs, try as they do, have a hard time in these sections). Mid-way through the day, many of our hiker friends were spreading their excitement about the legendary Home Place restaurant in Catawba, VA, a one-mile hitch from an upcoming road crossing. We hadn’t planned on going to eat there that day, but we couldn’t resist. After hiking 13 miles, we arrived at The Home Place, a beautiful old home restored as an all-you-can-eat soul food restaurant, which attracts people from all around. Even with the vegetarian version (very confusing to our waitress), we had our fill…far more than our fill, actually. The two-mile hike back out was an experiment in stomach-stamina. (Zack’s wins; mine loses.) Still, worth it.

Thru-hikers crashing en masse at the Home Place restaurant.

Day 62 Catawba Mountain Shelter to US-220, Daleville, VA (17.8 miles)
We woke up before 6:00am today! This is a big deal for us, but as it gets hotter, it will have to become a habit. By 7:00 we got to McAfee Knob, one of the most famous spots on the A.T. A rock juts out over the side of a mountain with “the best view in Virginia,” and another amazing photo session. Waking up early also made it possible for us to hike the 18 miles into town before 3:00. Thankfully, there was a great breeze today, which made hiking not only bearable, but quite pleasant! Dinner at the Daleville Pizza Hut, and splitting a pint of ice cream from the BP was the perfect way to chill after a hot week on the trail.

McAfee’s Knob, aka Pride Rock.

Day 63 Daleville, VA (0 miles)
We decided to relax and take the day off in Daleville. It’s not a fancy place, but it’s got what we need. Of course, the heat wave has continued to give us a break now that we are no longer hiking (the high today is a perfect 75). It’s a gorgeous day, and while we’ve got a few errands to run, we’re mostly planning on cashing in our free-doughnut coupons and sitting by the Howard Johnson Express swimming pool (believe it or not, it’s a very happening place).

I can feel our spirits lifting already, as our rashes, blisters and bug bites get a reprieve from the sweaty last few days. In the next week, we’ll finish the section of Virginia described as “rugged,” and enter the Shenandoah National Park, which is supposed to be absolutely beautiful, and a bit easier on the hiking legs. A lot to look forward to!

Love to all!
Lara (and Zack)

Vacation from Vacation

Posted on May 31, 2011

A vacation from our vacation. We cooked our last Knorr Side, broccoli cheddar rice, on the side of the road at the intersection of the Appalachian Trail and U.S. 52. Forty-eight days and 584 miles after beginning our trek, we’d managed to land at this junction within two hours of our desired rendezvous time. Proud of ourselves for executing our plans so flawlessly, we sat in the shade refusing offers to hitch into town. We had our own, special hitch on the way. And lo, just as anticipated, a shiny black Toyota, filled to the brim and piloted by two smiling, sun-glassed figures, pulled up the dusty gravel drive right on time. Lots of hugging ensued. For a brief moment, our on-trail lives and off-trail lives converged. We took pictures, walked a few yards of the trail. Then we dashed for the air conditioning.

Anywho. Veggie’s parents were kind enough to meet us near Bland, VA (real name, I promise) and whisk us away to Duck, NC where Caroline and Andrew are getting married (if either of you are reading this post after the wedding, congrats guys!). We’re honored to be here to share in the celebration and grateful to have a beach vacation within our mountain vacation.

We’ll be spending days 49-55 visiting, eating chocolate frogs and fizzing whizzbees (thanks Mom and Dani), and washing everything we own. Looking forward to a rejuvenating respite. Despite the change of scenery and the easier terrain, many hikers suffer from the “Virginia blues” during this portion of the trail. We’re feeling lucky to have 100+ miles of the state under our belts and a chance to refocus after this week off. When we return, we’ll be carrying less weight (bye-bye winter gear) and hopefully rejoining some of our friends who we’d gotten ahead of.

By far the biggest highlight of the past week was our day and a half in the Grayson Highlands. If you live in south-central Virginia and haven’t had the chance to visit this state park, please add it to your “must list.” Imagine you’re on the set of The Sound of Music, add in a few dozen feral ponies and you’ll have it.

Grayson Highlands State Park, VA.

Here’s what we’ve done since Damascus:

Day 41 Damascus, VA to Lost Mountain Shelter (15.8 miles)
Sure feels good to be back on the trail. We love our off days but start to get antsy after too long. Ate some vegan jerky with lunch today that was absolutely delicious–really hit the spot.

Fred G. relents and allows for a portrait.

Day 42 Lost Mountain Shelter to Thomas Knob Shelter (12.2 miles)
Dramatic weather! Last night at Lost Mountain was particularly serene and this morning was no different. As we set off to climb White Top and Mt. Rodgers, we were backed by birds chirping beneath blue skies. Soon, however, the sky began to turn hazy, then gray. Exasperated, we tried to hurry to the shelter, but it was out of reach. Buckets of water and tiny bits of hail drenched us to the bone. Within minutes the trail became a river. Mountain weather, you are fickle! Post-storm, however, the landscape opened up into something akin to the Swiss Alps. A stranger shouted, “Dudes! There’s like 10 wild ponies over here!,” alerting us to the presence of a great photo op. We spent the night (and weathered another storm) safe under the tin roof of Thomas Knob Shelter with some snoring firemen and some loquacious day-hikers. Oh, and in case you’re keeping tabs or planning a hike yourself, Thomas Knob is up there in the Top 5 shelters with amazing views.

Feral ponies roam the Grayson Highlands.

Day 43 Thomas Knob Shelter to Hurricane Mountain Shelter (16 miles)
A perfect day. The trail was even-tempered and well-graded. The skies were forgiving (save a bit off noontime heat), and the natural world was full of light. We ran into our second group of ponies right off the bat, and they were eager to interact with us. One licked, then nipped Lara’s leg, but it was all in good fun. We found a glorious spot for lunch–a single, shady tree amidst miles of mountain grasslands near the 500-mile mark. One of our favorite days yet.

Day 44 Hurricane Mountain Shelter to Partnership Shelter (19.7 miles)
After an uneventful 19.7 mile hike we arrived at Partnership Shelter, adjacent to the Mount Rogers Recreation Area headquarters. Called “the Taj” by thru-hikers, this shelter has a built in shower and acts as nearby phone from which you can order pizza. We dug the place, but weren’t fans of how crowded it was.

Day 45 Partnership Shelter to Davis Path Campsite (14.3 miles)
After 11 miles in the morning, we decided to stop in at “The Barn” restaurant for lunch near Atkins, VA where the trail crosses I-81. Our waitress, Carol, revealed at the end of our meal that she was a three-time thru-hiker and encouraged us to stay and wait out the oncoming thunderstorm. We took our sweet time, resupplying at the nearby Exxon station, drinking coffee and chatting with other hikers. Hours passed, but no rain fell. Sure enough, though, just as we decided to take a chance and leave, ominously dark clouds rolled in. We turned right back around, sat back down in the restaurant and waited out the downpour. Made it to camp during a window long enough to set up our tent and stay dry.

Day 46 Davis Path Campsite to Knot Maul Branch Shelter (11.3 miles)
This day may go down as one of our hardest, even though it was technically on the easy end. We had planned an 11.3 mile day–kids’ stuff compared to what we’ve done by now. Unfortunately, we underestimated our reliance on our morning coffee and were feeling sluggish without it. (Zack felt doubly lethargic after getting a worrisome bug bite and deciding to take a Benadryl at 9:00 in the morning.) Our short days always seem to feel the longest. Maybe it was just the week catching up with us, but we crashed as soon as we arrived in camp. The day was not without enjoyment, however. An especially outgoing bunny visited us several times as we ate dinner. It was obvious he’d been fed by other hikers. Mixed feelings about that, but happy to have a cute critter around nonetheless.

Day 47 Knot Maul Branch Shelter to Jenkins Shelter (19 miles)
Climbed a big’un to the top of Chestnut Knob this morning, where we had lunch in an old fire warden’s cabin. An afternoon that looked tame on the elevation map turned out to be nothing close to easy, and we wiggled our way over rocks and gnarly roots. Thankful to have have a hiking partner on these hot Virginia days. Encouragement is where it’s at.

Chestnut Knob Shelter.

Day 48 Jenkins Shelter to U.S. 21/52 (11.7 miles)
Left camp at 7:00 this morning and flew to our meet-up spot. Dinner in Chapel Hill–delicious pizza and salad. Craig and Andie G. even let me drive (an honest thrill after 7 weeks of traveling no faster than 3.5 miles an hour). Looking forward to a week’s worth of sleeping in a real bed.

Onward,
Zack (and Lara)

Virginia

Posted on May 21, 2011

We walked to Virginia! Yesterday morning we crossed the Tennessee-Virginia border and have made our way to Damascus, “the friendliest town on the trail.”

Virginia!

It’s been quite a week since Asheville, with many ups-and-downs, figurative and literal. We did two 22+ mile days, and we trudged through rain and cold, but we are very grateful for the last two days of sunshine, and for a full “zero” today in Damascus. Here’s what we’ve been up to:

Day 32 Erwin, TN to Curley Maple Shelter (4.2 miles)
After a great time in Asheville, we headed back to the trail. As we drove, heavy gray clouds moved in, and we learned that the forecast showed five days of rain ahead of us. We decided to press on nevertheless, and had a pleasant and short hike to a shelter just outside of Erwin. Just after we arrived, the downpour started and didn’t let up all night. We were happy there was room in the shelter, and that our good friends, Avo and H.I.P., had also braved the elements.

Day 33 Curley Maple Shelter to Clyde Smith Shelter (22 miles)
Our longest day yet (until later in the week)! Phew. The weather was not fun (to put it nicely). We trudged through pouring rain and slogged up slippery slopes, but we made it the whole 22 miles. Once we got to the shelter, a heavy fog moved in, and the night turned cold, but thankfully we were able to stay warm and relatively dry in the shelter.

Day 34 Clyde Smith Shelter to Overmountain Shelter (14.4 miles)
Oh, the wind and the rain! We climbed Roan Mountain, one of the highest points on the A.T. and the coldest part of the trail in the South, year-round. (We were very thankful this week to have our cold weather gear with us; some of our friends had already sent theirs home, thinking that the multiple 80-degree days we had had last week meant that the warmth was here to stay…not so fast…) We also climbed over many balds, from which the guidebook tells us there are many great views, but we were lost in a cloud of white and couldn’t see anything. We made it to Overmountain Shelter (an enormous, old barn converted into a shelter in 1986) for another cold, drafty night.

Overmountain Shelter. A bit drafty!

Day 35 Overmountain Shelter to Mountaineer Shelter (18 miles)
And the rain kept coming! Today was the day of “mud-skating.” The trail was muddy the whole way, and almost all of our clothes were soaked from the previous days of rain. I was so eager to get to the shelter by the end of the day, that we pretty much ran there for the last hour. Staying warmtook some effort, but we were able to salvage one pair of dry-ish items each and get some sleep.

Day 36 Mountaineer Shelter to Dennis Cove [Kincora Hostel] (15.6 miles)
The thought of dry clothes must have motivated us down the mountain today, because we made it to Kincora Hostel fast. Though it wasn’t actually raining, the trail was still muddy, and the air was still cold. We arrived at Kincora, a unique, low-key hostel with two bunk-rooms and a kitchen, supported by “a suggested donation of $4 per hiker.” We washed our clothes and dried off; it was so nice to be in a heated room! And then…they brought us free food! (A hiker’s best friend is free food.) They had tons of leftovers from the weekend, when they hosted an annual event called Hard Core, where volunteers meet at Kincora and go out and do trail work along the A.T. They said the food “had to go,” so we worked hard at that task for a while (salad, pasta, ice cream, soup – yum!).

Day 37 Dennis Cove [Kincora Hostel] to Vandeventer Shelter (17.5 miles)
After a big and luxurious breakfast of fresh fruit and cereal, we headed back out into the woods. First thing, we walked by Laurel Falls, a beautiful and enormous waterfall. It felt great to be hiking in weather that was not cold or rainy. The sun even made an appearance! We arrived at Vandeventer Shelter in time for dinner and a nice chat with some older thru-hikers. Given the favorable weather conditions, we were even able to set up the tent for the first time in a week!

Laurel Falls.

Day 38 Vandeventer Shelter to Abington Gap Shelter (22.7 miles)
Our longest day yet (for real this time)! We woke up early to watch the sunrise from Vandeventer Shelter. We were above the clouds, so even though it wasn’t clear enough to see the sun actually rise, we did get some great views. We headed out early, as we had a long day ahead of us. One thing we have learned on the A.T. is that “flat” terrain is never flat. Indeed, our “flat” day turned out to have lots of hills and climbs, but we did it, and the day was gorgeous. It makes such a difference to hike in nice weather.

Day 39 Abingdon Gap Shelter to Damascus, VA (10.2 miles)
Yesterday morning, we woke up early and headed out of camp, eager to get to town. We made great time, and crossed the state-line around 10:00am. Such a great feeling to know that we’ve walked from Georgia – through North Carolina and Tennessee – to Virginia! At this point we’re almost a quarter of the way done with the trail (we hit the 500-mile mark next week).

Day 40 Damascus, VA (ZERO miles)
Today we plan on relaxing and relaxing. After receiving an awesome mail drop from home and from Zack’s Colby friends, Colin and Esther, we stuffed ourselves yesterday with sweet treats. (In fact, we were so full that we had no room for dinner – crazy talk!) Today we’re hoping to do less gorging, but still more eating (of the fruit and vegetable variety this time). We’re sitting at Mojoe’s Trailside Coffeehouse eating breakfast and sipping coffee, and we’ve gotten a few recommendations for good veggie burgers in town, so that’s where you can find us.

We’ll be in Damascus until tomorrow morning, and in the meantime, we’re looking forward to giving our legs the break they deserve.

Love,
Lara (and Zack)

Asheville, NC

Posted on May 13, 2011

We’re in Asheville, NC! Home of the Biltmore estate, the best beer in the country (it’s official–sorry Portland) and, most importantly, the Plaehn Family! Helen, Tim, Martha, Patrick, Flannery, and Henry have been kind enough to welcome our smelly selves into their abode for a shower, laundry and a good night’s sleep. We like ’em! We also like Asheville, from the very little we’ve seen. About half the people here look like thru-hikers anyways, so the last few hours have been an easy transition for us. We were even able to do our resupply at a natural foods store. High fives for whole grain, organic toaster pastries and vegetarian chicken noodle soup!

A blogs-worth of stuff has happened to us lately. Today happens to be our one month “hike-a-versary!” Hard to believe we’ve already been on the trail for 31 days. Since the last post we crossed the 300 mile mark, located near a bald called–no joke–Big Butt. We also weathered a double thunderstorm in our tent, summitted Big Bald and hiked our first 21-mile day. Here’s the day by day:

Day 26 Zero in Hot Springs, NC (0 miles-yes!)
Pretty strange to take a full day off, but our bodies definitely appreciated the rest. Hot Springs, and the Sunnybank Inn in particular, was the perfect place to kick back. After a lazy morning and a big breakfast, we decided to enter into an untold realm of relaxation by taking a dip in the mineral pools at the Hot Springs Spa. All told, the “pools” were just jacuzzi tubs with the warm spring water pumped in. The view of the French Broad River was great, however, and the atmosphere was very peaceful. After an hour of soaking we felt pretty darn soothed, if not straight up loopy. Topped off the day with a big ice cream cone and dinner with friends.

Dinner with Wren in Hot Springs, NC.

Day 27 Hot Springs, NC to Spring Mountain Shelter (11 miles)
Excellent vegetarian breakfast prepared by Elmer and the staff at Sunnybank to send us on our way: waffles, granola, strawberries, cantaloupe, coffee, soy milk, jams, syrup, etc. One more stop at the library before leaving town. Short, but uphill day today to make sure our legs could readjust after zeroing.

Day 28 Spring Mountain Shelter to Jerry Cabin (15 miles)
Hard day today, both physically and emotionally. Our mileage was moderate to hard, 15 miles, but the grade was straight up for a large portion of the morning and afternoon. Something about the way the incline and the heat/humidity combined had us dragging our leaden feet. Hoping for a flat, easy 5 miles to end the day, but–surprise!–encountered a long stretch of ridge-line bouldering instead (easier for Zack, who has long legs, than for Lara, who has shorter legs). Had a few hours of peace at camp, but were kept awake all night by some of the most intense thunderstorms we’ve encountered yet. Constant lightning, sheets of rain, and rolling thunder kept us awake nearly all night. Fortunately, our tent held up, keeping us bone dry (well done, REI!). Oh, and we also had two encounters with two large snakes – yikes!

Day 29 Jerry Cabin to Hogback Ridge Shelter (15 miles)
Dreary-eyed, we emerged from our sleeping bags around 9:00 and decided to give ourselves a rest-filled morning at camp. Coffee and homemade breakfast breads definitely helped. Comparatively easy terrain made for a pleasant day of hiking, and we were able to camp with our friends Avo and H.I.P. for the third consecutive night in a row. Many thru-hikers have temporarily left the trail to attend Trail Days in Damascus, VA, so the trail has been quiet.

Soaking in the…guidebook.

Day 30 Hogback Ridge Shelter to No Business Knob Shelter (20.7 miles(!!))
Our biggest day yet, and a beautiful one to boot. Conquered Big Bald, which, true it’s name, was big…and bald. Outstanding views, and very few bothersome bugs at the top. Started feeling mentally drained around mile 15, but were able to push through thanks to a 10 minute ‘focus break’ and some nice chatter with H.I.P. during the last 2 or 3 miles. Spent the night at No Business Knob where we met Cimarron, an 88-year old solo thru-hiker. He’s hiking the trail for the second time, about 50 years after the first. What an inspiration.

That’s all for now!
Zack (and Lara)

Hot Springs, NC

Posted on May 7, 2011

Hello from Hot Springs, NC! It hasn’t been too long since we wrote last, which makes it easier for us to give a full update. Our travels continue to go well, though this week, the weather threw us for a loop. Tomorrow we’ll take our first full “zero” day of the trip so far, and we think it’s about time!

Here’s what’s happened to us since we left the town of Gatlinburg:

Day 21 Gatlinburg, TN to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (15.6 miles)

After a big breakfast of pancakes and a veggie omlette, we headed out of Gatlinburg. Many of our trail friends stayed behind to take another “zero” day there because the weather report looked dismal for the day – big rain and dropping temps coming in the afternoon. We decided we were ready to get back into the woods, and we’d brave the elements. We felt great for the first 10 miles, and we got some amazing views and vistas, and then we – over-confidently – decided to push on for an additional 5 miles to the next shelter. This was a very silly thing to do. The rain came down immediately, and we were soaked to the core the whole way. It barely let up, so we were running, trying to get to shelter as fast as we could. I’ve never been so glad to see a shelter, with a fire in the fire place to boot! It was packed with day hikers and a few fellow thru-hikers. At 6,000 feet, the temps continued to drop, and the rain continued to pour until…

Day 22 Tri-Corner Knob Shelter to Davenport Gap Shelter (14.8 miles)

Awoke to snow!

…We woke up to SNOW! We couldn’t believe it! Snow in May! The beginning of the day’s hike was a bit miserable, as we just wanted to get warm. Thankfully, much of the hiking was downhill, out of the high-elevation areas where the temps were so low. We camped at Davenport Gap Shelter, only one mile from the exit of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, with lots of our thru-hiking friends and enjoyed a much warmer night than the night before.

Day 23 Davenport Gap Shelter to Groundhog Creek Shelter (10.5 miles)

In the morning we exited the Smokies. It was a great visit, and we saw some incredible scenery. We got a few days of resupply food, enough to get us to Hot Springs, from Standing Bear Hiker Hostel, a small farm located 0.1 miles from the trail. We got to our campsite early, and met some new thru-hiker and section-hiker friends. It was a great day of hiking and just hanging out.

Day 24 Groundhog Creek Shelter to Walnut Mountain Shelter (13.1 miles)

We headed out of camp on time today! (It had been a while since we’d done that.) We were feeling great on the uphills, even in the cold morning rain, which thankfully cleared by the time we reached Max Patch. What a sight! We had a full 360-degree view of the surrounding forests and fields. (Weird story behind Max Patch: The forest service maintains the bald with lawnmowers and controlled burns so that it remains “bald.”) The rest of the day was easy hiking to Walnut Mountain Shelter. Our pace has gotten faster, so when we get an on-time departure in the morning, we get into camp really early. It’s nice to have that afternoon downtime to read and relax.

Max Patch.

Day 25 Walnut Mountain Shelter to Hot Springs, NC (13.1 miles)

We headed out of camp even earlier this morning, hoping to get to the town of Hot Springs before 2:00. What a great day to hike! Some uphills were mixed into the route this morning, but it was mostly smooth downhills into town. We ended up getting into Hot Springs around noon. It’s a funny feeling to follow the white blazes (the AT trail markers) and see them run straight through a town, as they do in Hot Springs. There will be more of that sort of thing as we get up north, but this is our first real instance of the trail crossing right through the heart of a town. We’re staying at The Sunnybank Inn, an enormous and beautiful Victorian house built in 1840 (the oldest building in town) which has been converted into a hiker hostel. (No dirty boots allowed inside!) There are communal, vegetarian meals – which we have heard great things about from all former thru-hikers – and porches that wrap around the house. We’re looking forward to our half-day in town today, and our first full “zero” day tomorrow. So much time without walking – what will we do?! (The answer is – eat.)

The Sunnybank Inn, Hot Springs, NC.

So, as we near our first month as trail folk, we are feeling very blessed and happy to have been safe, healthy and enjoying every minute of it all (which is an especially good thing since we’ve still got over 1,900 miles to go). We’re in good spirits and loving our thru-hiking companions and each day’s adventures.

That’s all for now!
Love,
Lara (and Zack), aka “Veggie Squared”

Gatlinburg

Posted on May 2, 2011

Good afternoon from Gatlinburg, TN: “The Gateway to the Smokies!” If you’ve never been to Gatlinburg (or Cherokee, or Pigeon Forge), you’re really missing out on a true piece of Americana. Today is our 20th day on the trail, and fourth day in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. After seeing so much nature on foot, it’s been weird remembering that most Americans experience nature in their cars. The Smokies get nine million visitors a year, most of which never (or very rarely) leave their vehicles. I think that’s a shame. Nevertheless, we’re enjoying a “near-o” day in this little Tennessee version of Vegas. With over 100 motels, 70 restaurants, and dozens of side-show attractions (so far we’ve counted eight different “Old-Timey Photo” shops), being in Gatlinburg is like being on another planet. Plus, they have a Shoney’s! Jackpot! All joking aside, the folks here are hospitable and welcoming to thru-hikers, even when we’re smelly. We thank them for that.

A lot has happened since we last posted. It’s hard to think we’ve already hiked more than 200 miles–close to 10% of the AT. After weeks without trail names, we think we’ve settled on Veggie (Lara) and Square (Zack). We’ve met some fantastic people and have started to settle into a group of sorts. The trail attracts people from all walks of life, and it’s been a real pleasure getting to know some of them. We’re already dreading the day when we get separated due to injury, vacation, or pace. One fellow hiker, Bluefoot, has described this as “the most non-linear linear experience of our lives.” Everyone hiking their own hike, intersecting now and then, but all still heading north.

Here’s the day-by-day:

Day 8 Hiawassee to Muskrat Creek Shelter (12 miles)

Severe thunderstorms delayed our departure from Hiawassee until late morning. Thankfully, the shuttle driver was willing to wait with us at the Budget Inn until the rain cleared. The hike out of Georgia and into North Carolina was brutal–12 miles nearly entirely uphill. On days like this, both Lara and I are particularly grateful to have a hiking partner. Mid-afternoon we unceremoniously crossed into NC, stopping at a gnarled tree a few hundred yards later for a photo-op. Our joy was short-lived as the NC side of the AT gave us two extremely steep climbs, without switchbacks. When we finally made it to the Muskrat Creek Shelter, heavy-footed, we quickly ate a mashed-potato dinner, hung our bear bag, and crashed.

Gnarly.

Day 9 Muskrat Creek Shelter to Carter Gap Shelter (12.5 miles)

The hiker’s prayer, according to our friend Buzz Saw: “Lord, if you pick’em up, I’ll put’em down.” In a way, our prayers were answered today as we found ourselves rewarded with an easy, gradual day 9. The highlight of the day was lunch at the summit of Standing Indian Mountain.

Day 10 Carter Gap Shelter to Rock Gap Shelter (12 miles)

Day 10, our second big milestone after the 50-mile mark. It’s safe to say we’re really starting to feel like thru-hikers. Our appetites are kicking in! Early this morning we weathered some heavy rain and lightning, which we observed from inside our tent. (Lara points out that we spend nearly 16 hours a day in that tiny space. Good thing we aren’t claustrophobic!) After a hand-over-hand climb to the top of Albert Mountain, we lunched at the top of the observation tower with a new friend, Jackrabbit. Jackrabbit tests snowplows for a living. Do you know anyone with that job?

Day 11 Rock Gap Shelter to Wayah Shelter (15 miles)

Glorious, blue-sky day. We decided to bypass Franklin, NC and push on into the Nantahala wilderness. If I haven’t mentioned it before, the forest service signs here resemble either the Rosetta Stone or a newspaper from the Flintstones. (See here, then here.) We received our first AND second real, bonafide bits of trail magic today. The first came from a sweet representative of the Nanatahala Trail Club who ran up to us as we emerged into a parking lot and exclaimed, “Happy Easter from the NTC!” We each received a bag of goodies containing candy, applesauce, and hard-boiled eggs–everything a thru-hiker could ever want. We devoured our packs on top of Silar Bald, which offered spectacular views of the surrounding region. Later in the day we began to hear whisperings of beer and hot dogs atop Wayah Bald, our final destination for the day. Sure enough, Topper, an ’05 thru-hiker, and his friends were waiting next to the stone observation tower there with a tent full of goods, including fresh fruit, cold soda and SmartDogs, which are vegetarian franks. Hurrah!

Trail Magic.

Day 12 Wayah Shelter to Wesser Bald Shelter (10.5 miles)

Easy day today up and over Wesser Bald. Had a great chat with Journey, a second-time thru-hiker, whose partner will be teaching at Whitman next year. We very much enjoyed this small-world moment and gave her our authoritative perspective on Walla Walla.

Day 13 Wesser Bald Shelter to NOC (6 miles)

Sad news today entering Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC): Buzz Saw and Gramps, two of our favorite hikers, have left the trail. As they were one step ahead of us, we weren’t given the opportunity to say goodbye or discuss their reasons for stopping their hike. We knew going into this that most hikers attempting to get to Maine drop out before they get there, but Buzz and Gramps’ departure really brought this statistic home.

Spent the day today at the Nantahala Outdoor Center, a hub for river rafting companies situated right next to the river (and right on the AT). We showered, shopped, and ate three hefty meals here, including the “best pizza on the trail” at the River’s End Restaurant. Best pizza we’ve had thus far anyways. Will need to wait until it’s all over to release a final verdict.

Buzzsaw and Gramps.

Day 14 NOC to Sassafrass Gap Shelter (7 miles)

Two weeks on the trail. After a mere 18 hours in civilization, and a sweltering night in the NOC bunks, we were eager to get back on the trail. The climb out of the NOC is a doozie, but we made it to Sassafrass Gap by 1:00. Met up with Journey there and decided to spend our first night in a shelter, which was a beautifully crafted, double-decker with a skylight and no mice.

Day 15 Sassafrass Gap Shelter to Cable Gap Shelter

Awful storm tonight, that we–thankfully–survived unscathed. In retrospect, we were probably safer in the mountains than anywhere else it the Southeast. Pretty scary stuff.

Day 16 Cable Gap Shelter to Fontana Dam Shelter
Another taste of society as we “near-oed” in Fontana Resort. Stayed the night at the Fontana Dam shelter, affectionately known as the ‘Fonatana Hilton’ due to its size and proximity to real bathrooms. We were treated to luxuries all day–trail magic from Chimp’s parents out of Knoxville, a mail drop from mom and dad, and a warm, happy evening with about 28 other hikers preparing to venture into the Smokies. Our time at Fontana felt a lot like a frat mixer. Only differences: we just met these people a week ago, and no one threw up. My kind of party.

Day 17 Fontana Dam Shelter to Russell Field Shelter

Our first day in Great Smoky Mountain National Park. The trail in this section crosses over the Fontana Dam (and no, it’s not the dam from The Fugitive–we asked). Friends and family may recall that our last camping trip in the Smokies was 4 days of rain, followed by my car breaking down (but we still had fun!). Today we had uncharacteristically blue skies, great temps, and amazing views. Met a very nice trail-runner named Carl who works the section around Fontana from February-May. He’s in his late sixties and his ninth season as a trail-runner. Nice to know these guys are around.

Day 18 Russell Field Shelter to Silar Bald Shelter

Planned a short day today, but decided to push on and meet our friends at Silar’s Bald. Many pushed on to catch a sunrise at Clingman’s Dome, but we didn’t have the 4:00 AM departure in us.

Silar’s Bald.

Day 19 Silar Bald Shelter to Mt. Collins Shelter

Slept in a bit this morning but eventually emerged to a blustery sunrise atop Silar’s Bald (the one in the Smokies, not the one in the Nantahala. They seem to have run out of titles when naming the mountains around here. I think we’ve seen 3 different Sassafrass Gaps at this point). Summitted Clingman’s Dome today, which at 6,643 ft. is the highest point on the Appalachian Trial. The view was hazy, but hey, we’re in the Smokies. Lots of tourists. Cell phone reception in one spot. Just enough to get a text from dad that said “I bet you guys look good.” For your information, we looked like we hadn’t showered in 5 days.

Day 20 Mt. Collins Shelter to Newfound Gap/Gatlinburg, TN

Out of the shelter at 7:00 this morning to catch a ride into Gatlinburg. Got our first hitch in the parking lot–a fellow from upstate NY, his father, and his uncle heading back to town after a week of familial bonding in the Smokies. Neither of us likes asking for rides much, but you do what you gotta do.

Missing you all. Feel free to write us, via post or email, and let us know what you’re up to on the other side of life.

Love,
Zack (and Lara)

Fontana Dam

Posted on April 28, 2011

Greetings.

We’re taking a “near-o” day in Fontana Dam, NC, home of the largest dam east of the Mississippi. Tonight’s shelter, adjacent to the dam itself, is known affectionately as the “Fontana Hilton” and features showers/flush toilets! I know, right! Also, due to a wonderful scheduling coincidence, a Mini Cooper convention is happening on the premises. Nothing like walking out of the woods and seeing a caravan of Austin Powers wannabe’s.

“The Fontana Hilton”

The view from the Fontana Dam gift shop.

Weathered a pretty intense storm last night–lots of falling branches and rolling thunder. Our hearts go out to everyone in Huntsville and the rest of the Southeast who didn’t fare as well as we did.

Tomorrow morning we’ll enter Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Anticipate a more extensive blog update with pictures (and possibly video) from Gatlinburg in four days. Sixteen days down, and missing everyone very much.

Zack (and Lara)

And We’re Off!

Posted on April 11, 2011

Greetings from Hiawassee, Georgia! We’re one week into our journey, and, after getting a one-day late start, we have caught up to our original itinerary. In fact, we’ve probably been pushing too hard (say many seasoned thru-hikers, who all advise starting slow). So, from here on out, we are planning on sticking to our very reasonable schedule, averaging 11 miles per day per week, and then increasing the weekly average by a mile each week (got it?). So far, we are both feeling strong, though Zack has had a few blisters and a tricky knee (the day in town will do him good). Almost a week in, we are loving the journey and are excited about what each day holds. We’re learning all sorts of new things everyday, and exploring unbelievably beautiful parts of the country that we would never have seen otherwise. We’ve each said, “Can you believe this is just out here for anyone who wants to find it?” It’s amazing, and we feel very grateful to experience it. No matter how far we get, it’s been worth the trek! Here’s what we’ve done so far.

The best cake ever. Chocolate Peanutbutter from Atlanta’s Cafe Sunflower.

Day 1 Amicalola Falls to Springer Mountain Shelter (9 miles)
Mr. Ezor, Mrs. Ezor and Mrs. Goodrich dropped us off at Amicalola Falls for the start of our trip. Zack’s pack weighed in at 39 lbs, and mine at 35 lbs. That’s heavier than we’d hoped, but so far it’s been managable. And, with goodbyes and a few tears, off we went! Up the beautiful falls on a gorgeous day, though 425 steep steps is not necessarily the most encouraging way to start a 2,181-mile trek. Most people hike the Amicalola approach trail, but it’s not technically part of the trail. (The trail doesn’t official begin until you reach the top of Springer.) So, of the 9 miles we hiked our first day, only 0.2 counted towards the grand total. Can you believe that? But, anyway! We made it to the top of Springer Mountain around 3:00pm, where we took some fun pictures and signed the AT log book, which means we officially became [aspiring] thru-hikers!

Atop Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the AT.

Day 2 Springer Mountain Shelter to Gooch Gap Shelter (15 miles)
After camping out at Springer Mountain Shelter/Campsite, we began our planned 7.6-mile day, but when we reached our destination before lunchtime, we decided to move on to Gooch Gap Shelter, the next AT shelter, which was an additional 8 miles. Phew! Long day of hiking, but it felt good to know that we could do it, and we had a great night with fellow thru-hikers at Gooch Gap.

Day 3 Gooch Gap Shelter to Neel’s Gap (15.5 miles)
Zack said that we should wait to see if we were still enthusiastic about hiking when we came upon a day that was “cold and raining sideways.” Day 3 was that day. Up until then we’d had sun and clear skies, but on Friday, a thick fog settled over the mountains, and as the temperature dropped, the rain came down in spurts. At a cold lunch break, we were informed that the campsite where we had planned to be for the night was closed due to bear activity – as were the campsites within a 5-mile radius of it – which led us to our second 15-mile day in a row. We decided to push on to Neel’s Gap, where the trail passes through a mountain supply store, and a few nearby hostels welcome hikers. When we arrived, we found out that a huge storm was coming our way, so we were even more grateful to be under a roof that night (as if bears weren’t reason enough).

Day 4 Neel’s Gap to Low Gap Shelter (10.6 miles)
At Neel’s Gap we got our first MAIL DROP! Zack had packed one for us a few days before we left home, and we promptly discovered that we had sent ourselves way too much food. Like whoa. We went through everything in the mail drop, as well as everything we had in our packs, and donated 15 or so pounds of food to the “hiker box” at Neel’s Gap, for hungry hikers to take. It was actually a good thing, because now we know how much food we can actually eat and carry (at least at this point – they say that after a week or two your “hiker appetite” kicks in, which is a whole different kind of eating). I had a cup of much-needed coffee at Mountain Crossings before heading out, and the guy who rang me up had the quote of the day: “Yeah, I used to drink coffee too, when I had a real job. Then I hiked the AT…Now, I don’t drink coffee. And I don’t have a real job.” After heading out of Neel’s Gap, we had a nice mid-length hike to Low Gap, where we camped with a Boy Scout troop from Decatur, GA. The Boy Scouts’ dads were nice enough to clear some room at the campsite for our tent. It was a cold and windy night.

Before descending into Neels gap.

Day 5 Low Gap Shelter to Blue Mountain Shelter (7.6 miles)
We started our day off right, with our first bit of “trail magic” from the Decatur Scout masters – hot coffee (always my favorite), a Powerbar and a Hershey Bar! We decided we wanted a slow day, so we hiked under 8 miles. We got to Blue Mountain Shelter, a beautiful campsite known for its cold, windy nights, just after lunch and had a very relaxing afternoon writing, reading and working on our itinerary. We chatted with a fellow thru-hiker (trail-named “Mississippi Milkweed Puff”) who had made, by hand, a lightweight banjo so that he could take it on the trail with him. (He also built his own canoe and rowed down the entire Mississippi last year. Needless to say, he is a very cool dude.) The night ended up being very mild and nice, in spite of the windy warnings, and our legs appreciated the shorter day.

Day 6 Blue Mountain Shelter to Deep Gap Shelter (15.3 miles)
Another hard day! They say that Georgia is one of the hardest states on the Appalachian Trail because of all of the ups-and-downs. There are 25 major gaps in the 75 miles in the state – all of which you must painstakingly climb into and out of. (They say also that New Hampshire and Maine are the hardest, but by the time you reach them, you’re better trained, so you can handle them.) Yesterday was hard and hot. We pushed on though, and made it over Kelly’s Knob at the end of the day, with all the energy we could muster. We were very grateful to arrive at Deep Gap Shelter around 5:00, in time for a quick dinner with fellow thru-hikers, and then to sleep (at 7:45pm).

Day 7 Deep Gap Shelter to Dick’s Creek – Hiawassee, GA (3.5 miles)
It was time for a short day. As planned, we headed into Hiawassee today, a small town in north Georgia, 11 miles off the trail. In order to catch the shuttle from the trail, we woke up at 5:00am, and hiked out in the dark. I thought it was very spooky. Fortunately, we got to watch a brilliant sunrise over the mountains; unfortunately, my camera did not capture its beauty in full effect. Since arriving in Hiawassee, we have been very productive, and have enjoyed civilization very much (hot showers! laundry! grocery stores! internet!), and the day has only just begun. We’re planning on going out to eat tonight, which is very exciting, though I’m a bit nervous about the fact that my “nice” outfit is my hiking top, hiking shorts and Crocs, which are still the ugliest shoes ever made.

Thanks for all the encouragement and love! Happy Trails to all!
Lara (and Zack)

PS- We still don’t have our “trail names,” but we’re working on it.