We made it to Vermont! Now, that seems really far away from where we started. Since our last post, we have had some of our best trail moments, and – thanks to the near-constant rain – a few of our not-so-best trail moments. But, we are now refreshed and “caloried-up,” as they say in hiker-speak, in Manchester Center, VT at what might just be the best hiker hostel evah, Green Mountain House.
In lieu of keeping things interesting, and not having to write a novel every time we do a blog entry, we are ditching the day-by-day format and going for a more free-form style. So, here’s what has happened to us since we left the comfort of the Berkshires back in Massachusetts…
Great Barrington to Dalton, MA
After stuffing ourselves silly with Cousin Eddie and Mickey, we got back on the sunny trail with heavy packs and full stomachs. Massachusetts continued to impress us with some amazing vistas and wonderful shelters. We had heard about the wonders of Upper Goose Pond Cabin, an Appalachian Mountain Club facility, operated by a volunteer caretaker, and had planned our mileage around getting there with enough time to spend a leisurely afternoon on the pond. The picture-perfect pond atop the mountain made for an amazing time, indeed. We took a canoe out and paddled the perimeter of the pond, and cooked our dinner on a real stove. And, in the morning (this is the stuff of legends among thru-hikers), the caretaker makes all-you-can-eat pancakes! And coffee! Needless to say, this was one of our favorite places on the entire trail.
The next day, we stopped for lunch at a blueberry farm along the trail and picked ourselves a pound of fresh berries. Our guidebook referred to this farm as the residence of the “cookie lady,” which seemed curious since clearly it is a blueberry farm. But then…they brought us a basket of freshly baked cookies, and we happily understood the nickname. Energized, we hiked a long day into Dalton, where we stayed with Tom Levardi, who, for 31 years, has welcomed hikers into his home for laundry, a shower and a cushy floor to sleep on. And we thought the cookies were as good as life could get!
Dalton to Adams, MA
After stopping at the local diner on the way out of Dalton (for “grilled” coffee cake – which means, coffee cake + more butter), we hiked a short day to the next town over, Cheshire, MA. There, we met up with Emily C., one of our most favorite people. She had driven all the way from Boston to spend the day with us, and we were thrilled to be with her. First order of business, of course, was finding some place to eat second breakfast, so we made our way to the little town of Adams, and stuffed ourselves on the biggest blueberry pancakes you’ve ever seen. (At the end of this trip, I think blueberry pancakes will rank #1 on our list of “Items most ordered along the A.T.”)
After running some errands and checking into Mount Greylock Inn, a charming bed and breakfast, we went to the Berkshire Mall, where destiny called and we finally saw the last Harry Potter movie! Our viewing was followed by a delicious dinner of pizza and ice cream in the mall food court, featuring in-depth discussions of the series. (What does it mean for our generation that the series is now over? Does evil cease to exist in Harry’s world now that Voldemort is vanquished? And, more importantly, why didn’t they film Ron and Hermione’s kiss from a better angle? Etc…)
The next morning, we returned to Miss Adams Diner for more pancakes (I surprised Zack by sneakily ordering some for us while he had gone to the restroom), and then Emily dropped us back onto the trail and headed back to Boston.
Adams, MA to Manchester Center, VT
We hiked up Mount Greylock in a thick fog, and unfortunately, when we reached the top, we had no view at all. We’ve added the mountain to our list of sites to come back and see in better weather because we’ve heard it’s a view not to be missed. We had only planned to do a 16-mile day to a campsite, but as we got closer, we ran into a friend who heard that big rain was on its way, and advised that we aim for the nearest shelter instead. That’s how we ended up in Vermont a day early, and that’s when the rain began…
Unfortunately, our first two days in Vermont featured a near-constant downpour and chilly temperatures. We were able to slog through it, and keep some of our clothes dry, but the infamous “Vermont mud” made hiking a bit slow and sloppy. The trail at times looked more like a river than a trail. By day three, the skies cleared and we got to see more of the Vermont we had been expecting – the Green Mountains finally emerged through the fog, and the bright sun began to dry out our drenched selves. We also crossed the 3/4-mark, and felt a sense of accomplishment in that.
This morning, we hiked a quick 2.8 miles into Manchester Center, where we spent the morning eating (more pancakes!) and running errands in the outlet-oriented town. Now, we’re at Green Mountain House – a true home for hikers more than a hostel – with a computer, TV, beds, shower, laundry, kitchen and freezer (we get our own pint of Ben and Jerry’s; this is Vermont, after all!).
It’s hard to believe we’ve made it to our twelfth state. More than 500 miles remain, which feels simultaneously like a long way to go, and not much in comparison to what we’ve done. We’re feeling grateful to still have our positive attitudes in tact (unfortunately, it’s becoming rarer and rarer to see North-bounders with smiles on their faces) and looking forward to new boots on our feet!
Love to all,
Lara (and Z)